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      <h1 class="post-title">2020年初伦敦行(2)：肯辛顿、温莎堡</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2020-02-10 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2423 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 5 分钟 </span>
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  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
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    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#抵达伦敦">抵达伦敦</a></li>
    <li><a href="#1-27-伦敦">1-27​ 伦敦</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#肯辛顿宫">肯辛顿宫</a></li>
        <li><a href="#温莎城堡">温莎城堡</a></li>
        <li><a href="#伦敦碎片大厦">伦敦碎片大厦</a></li>
      </ul>
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    <div class="post-content">
      <h2 id="抵达伦敦">抵达伦敦</h2>
<p>十个小时飞行，一飞机的人都全程口罩，气氛严肃。落地是伦敦当地周日的七点。过关时提交一份健康申明，并未测温。坐上<a href="https://metromaplondon.com/">Piccadilly线</a>（地图一般标记为靛青线），从希思罗机场直趋Earls Court。</p>
<p>这是条古老的线路（但还不是最老），咣当咣当地往东开。震动厉害时，车厢照明灯都会熄灭几盏。车厢里没几个人，忽明忽暗间有一种诡异的氛围。站台也不那么严丝合缝，部分站台比车厢地板高三四十公分。并不是所有站都适合残疾人上下车。</p>
<p>Earls Court是个换乘大站，上两层站台才到地面。走上Earls Court路，街上人还不少。​丁字路口没有红绿灯，我们跟着本地人趁空穿过马路，折入一条小巷。酒店就在其中一排民居中间。</p>
<p>早餐是清晨服务员送到门口的。一壶浓咖啡，三瓶果汁，数个面包+奶酪+果酱。很丰盛，感动地大吃一顿。谁料后面几日天天如此，完全不变。​真是「最优实践」实践到吐呢。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMb7dwkk14.jpeg" width="80%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 每日早餐</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h2 id="1-27-伦敦">1-27​ 伦敦</h2>
<h3 id="肯辛顿宫">肯辛顿宫</h3>
<p>走出酒店。起头两天买了London Pass，所以要多走景点。主要计划是温莎城堡，需要去Paddington坐车。但起效时间是10点，所以先到附近走走肯辛顿宫。</p>
<p>这个街区大致长这样，很标致的英式街道。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM93JM9399.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Earls Court街景</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>往北走，是一条主街Cromwell（护国大将军克伦威尔）路。建筑更旷大一些。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM93UfET73.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Cromwell大街</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9muJL268.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Cromwell大街</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9jFBhTb1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | St. Stephens圣公会教堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM94jluO52.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 形态清奇的一座建筑，Da Mario餐馆</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>穿过使馆林立的南肯辛顿街区，来到肯辛顿公园。这是一个开放公园。碰巧天气不错，无风无雨，进去散散步。虽是深冬，阳光和煦，芳草如茵，松鼠嬉戏。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9mSXtNb3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Kensington Park</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9pwiqC2a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Kensington Park</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>肯辛顿宫就在公园西端。正门金光灿灿，让人想起英剧里那些庄园来。然而紧闭不开，要从侧面进到公园。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9Iacgk74.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 金灿灿的肯辛顿宫大门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9Lgygec6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 肯辛顿宫旁的绿茵</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>肯辛顿公园内有个圆形池塘，各色水鸟在岸边等着游人投喂。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9ItZo480.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 水禽辐辏的Round Pond</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>水鸟主要是天鹅和绿头鸭，也有不少海鸥和鸽子。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9t5Mi6aa.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 一堆鸭鹅鸥鸽</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>肯辛顿宫也包含在London Pass里，便进到里面去。这原本是维多利亚女王年轻时的居处，开放部分到处是她的纪念物。也是戴安娜王妃的故居，展出了很少一些周边。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9LGvkyf6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 肯辛顿宫·国王大阶</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9tm6Acdc.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 肯辛顿宫·会客厅内部</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9IZWqbf7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 肯辛顿宫·殿顶</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9M55Qq7e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 肯辛顿宫·群臣觐见维多利亚微缩模型</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>比较有趣的是一个展示维多利亚在西敏寺加冕的模型，像一只大规模八音盒。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AM9tK0CYb0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 维多利亚加冕模型</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>总的来说，展示的内容不多。宫殿经过戴安娜长期居住后，内部陈设和装修也趋于平民化了。</p>
<h3 id="温莎城堡">温莎城堡</h3>
<p>从肯辛顿公园北面的Lancaster门出园北行，不几步就到了Paddington火车站。这是个著名的大站，伦敦最早一条地铁就是沟通Paddington和Farringdon的。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMa3dwxp1f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Paddington火车站</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>坐火车GWR西行到Slough，转一班慢车，耗费一个多小时，来到Windsor。这是征服者威廉登陆英格兰后建造的第一座堡垒，但最终要到19世纪才建成今貌。它东距希思罗机场仅10公里，所以头顶飞机一架接着一家。伊顿公学所在的Eden，在它紧南侧。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMalO3fq48.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·外立面</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMa3EAqVc5.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·正门（仅做出口）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>温莎城堡呈不规则形，围绕圆塔，有上下两区。上区在右翼，地势高些。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMamgGEc04.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·上区</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在上区回望温莎镇，房屋错落，不饱和色缤纷有致。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMa3X5ES12.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor镇</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>城堡的中心是圆塔，整个温莎堡最初的建筑。这是诺曼人最早的城堡样式，一个木圆塔，周边挖出壕沟。后来改用石头重构，壕沟也不注水了，改成花园。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMajAJTQ0a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·圆塔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMamPcDe38.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·圆塔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMak1z6v17.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·圆塔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>通过诺曼门绕回上区，是禁止参观的庭院。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AManj5ug00.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·Norman门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>现英女王伊丽莎白周末还会住到温莎城堡。这个庭院应该就是她住的地方，所以不对外开放。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMakuYif6b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·上区庭院（禁入）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>从这里，能看到很大一片王室土地。这些土地包括球场、赛马场、牧场等。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMa58aMvb7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·王室球场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AManIdBh0b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Windsor城堡·王室球场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>下区最重要的建筑是St. George Chapel，是仍在使用的一座教堂。圣乔治是在西北欧地位崇隆的圣徒，英格兰保护圣徒（相当于国家级护法金刚），但其实一辈子没去过英格兰。他是巴勒斯坦人或土耳其人，活动于罗马帝国东部，因保护基督徒被罗马皇帝戴克里先杀了。在英格兰，他被神化为屠龙骑士，龙血流地上形成血十字，也就是英格兰红十字旗的形象。在瑞典、西班牙等地也有圣乔治屠龙的纪念教堂。这有点像关老爷逐步封神的历程。可惜教堂内部不能拍摄，十分华美。爱德华三世搞了个尬德，不对，嘉德（Garter）骑士团。在圣乔治堂里修了个诵经室，把这些骑士的族徽挂在里面。细想一下，说实话，效果挺燃的。这种等级、勋章、亲疏待遇啥的，像极了游戏奖励机制，难怪可以调动骑士的忠诚。</p>
<h3 id="伦敦碎片大厦">伦敦碎片大厦</h3>
<p>冒雨（终于有点英国的样子了）坐火车回到Paddington，坐Bakerloo线（棕线）到Waterloo站，看碎片大厦。</p>
<p>不巧碰到（周一的！）晚高峰，人山人海满坑满谷。伦敦的地铁车厢还设置了沙发座椅，特别占地方，中间过道只能勉强站一人。由于没有屏蔽门，也不大敢往前站。​费了很大劲最终才乘上车。</p>
<p>碎片大厦（Shard）​是南岸比较有标志性的新建筑，长得像个头朝上的长箭头。上到高层观景台，可以看到泰晤士河两岸的伦敦夜景。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2020/0210/001ZzLsRzy7AMb7KPkN75.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 碎片大厦·俯瞰伦敦夜景</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>不过没看太久。娃跟我们走了两万多步，困成狗了。打道回府。</p>
<p>Earls Court站旁就有个M&amp;S Food，就是口碑极好但还是从中国撤出的​玛莎百货。里面货品挺多，比如2.75镑一瓶的椰子水，2镑的牛奶，都还算便宜。买个大号披萨，回酒店烤了烤（对，酒店有烤箱、电磁炉、微波炉，还有洗碗机），再煮了个方便面，就解决了一顿饭。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">这酒店整体还挺好</p>
<p>就是两个问题：</p>
<ol>
<li>暖气太热，逼得我穿短袖还开窗；</li>
<li>窗户隔音不好，总能听到汽车轧过马路的声音。​</li>
</ol>
</div>
<p>[待续]</p>
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